Showing posts with label warnings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label warnings. Show all posts

Sunday, April 14, 2013

Not just another port; THE Gambia


“Hello, sweet sister.  Welcome to the smiling coast of Gambia!”  

It was a lovely greeting, floating up to the rail, where I stood looking out at yet another dock in yet another harbor.

Today we had an unscheduled stop in Banjul, The Gambia.  We gassed up, and we took on some medical supplies flown in from the US.  Our students have been warned, “Don’t play with the monkeys” in almost every port since Japan, but—being of a Certain Age—they played with the monkeys.  And now some have to have just-in-case treatment for rabies.
Maersk containers are omnipresent.

In a similar vein, a student came to the office today to find out just what would happen if he went over his points limit in Morocco.  “It’s the last port, so they can’t throw me off the ship, right?” 

(Students get points for various infractions of the behavioral code.  If they reach 10, they are supposed to be sent home.  Naturally, there are appeals and exceptions, but we have offloaded a few.  Evidently, this one is looking at one more night in the drunk tank pushing him over the threshold.)

Some of our students have the stated goal of being drunk in every port.  (Do they also have aligned goals, like “DUI before 25” and “Passed out in a gutter before 50”?  Better put “Friend of Bill W” on the agenda, too.)

To be specific, this means they are planning to go into an overwhelmingly Moslem, very conservative country and spit in the face of cultural norms.  USA!  USA!  I vote in favor of throwing him, literally, off the ship.

To be fair, most of the students on board share my opinion of these party animals.  Most of the students do not play with the monkeys.  They are the ones stressed out over their upcoming exams, working too hard to taken time to socialize.  They are the ones filling up classrooms for workshops on resume writing, volunteering in Africa, and founding an NGO.  And they are putting on the Drag Show and organizing Crew Recognition Day.  There’s a lot going on aboard ship—too much to take in, really—and most of the students are making the most of their days here.

Today, we stood still in The Gambia, the smallest country in mainland Africa.  It’s pretty much the banks of the Gambia River, 10 miles on each bank, running upriver about 200 miles.  Except for the mouth of the river, on the Atlantic coast, it is completely surrounded by Senegal. 

Because we had people getting off the ship, we had to go through the whole process of clearing immigration.  A dozen men came aboard, largely to drink juice and eat pastries, since there was really nothing else for them to do.  (In most ports, we have a face-to-face, where immigration checks passports for each passenger.  It takes hours.)

Outside, the locals called to us and tried to sell us their wares.  I suppose from their viewpoint, it looked like any other cruise ship coming in to the harbor:  immigration gets on, then people get off.  One enterprising fellow tried to sell an IPad and an IPhone.  (Who knew there was an Apple store in The Gambia?  Or, maybe not.)  It’s sad that they had nothing better to do than wait for people who could not visit.

One local did manage to make it up to Deck 6 at lunch.  This moth was completely intent on my lunch.  Even as I moved my fork closer and closer, it stayed on my plate. 

The moth, too, was bound to be disappointed.  The most interesting thing about the food these days is the new names the kitchen staff comes up with for the same old food.  This was minced beef, indistinguishable from meatloaf.  The potatoes are the best:  they are roasted, steak-cut, home fried, Lyonnaise, and present at breakfast, lunch and dinner.  They are rarely mashed and I’ve never seen them au gratin, probably to keep them dairy free.

Still, better than the alternative.  Food cooked for you doesn’t have to meet a very high standard, especially when someone else cleans up, too.

So add another country to the list.  I’ve never been to The Gambia, but I can see it from my window.

Monday, March 25, 2013

Windy morning in Cape Town

We have been sailing very close to the coast of South Africa for a couple of days, hoping to find calmer waters. Not calm, to be sure, but perhaps calmer. At night, you can see lights. During the day, it's hard to distinguish where the clouds end and where the water begins. If you know there's land, you can sort of see it. Maybe.

This morning, we could see land clearly as we came into Cape Town harbor. At full light, I went up to the observation deck on 7, only to find it was closed due to high winds. (This is common. Deck 7 is often closed. Deck 8 is almost never open once we get into open waters.) I went into the faculty/staff lounge and found an intrepid (and defiant) group of people braving the deck.

Since I am pretty heavily scheduled with SAS trips in this port, going out on deck may be the most adventurous thing I do in Cape Town. You can see from my hair how windy it is. After I came back in, I realized my hair ribbon (you can barely see it) had blown completely off.

The view was worth it. The aptly named Table Mountain looms large. The city hugs the shore, with the mountains rising close behind. There's a cable car up the mountain (on days less windy than this).

Warnings for Cape Town: don't go anywhere alone, or even in a small group. Beware of ATMs which might blow up, or where you may be mugged. Don't ride the trains unless you are in a car with an armed guard. Never let your credit card out of your sight, even at a good restaurant. Compared to Cape Town, everywhere we've been is considered safe.

Tom has been getting a lot of flak for emphasizing crime and safety in the preports. This time, he just sent everyone the Country Specific Information and said, "Read it and take heed. This time it's up to you." I think the students were disappointed. There's a certain amount of Schadenfreud--we all want to know the adventures we avoided.

Several students are departing in Cape Town, having gathered enough disciplinary points that they are no longer welcome. Others are going to be enjoying South Africa from the ship, having accumulated double or triple dock time for landing in the drunk tank after Mauritius. (If you land in the drunk tank, it's an automatic 24 hours of dock time in the next port. I think about 40 students ignored Tom's warning of triple dock time and came in wasted. At 6 PM. These kids really are flirting with a life of alcoholism.)

Me? I had wine at Communion last night. I'm on a search for Easter Candy.

Friday, February 15, 2013

Aging Aquarius


Doc Micah started us off in Hawaii with “The Volcano Song,” a little ditty his children sang in preschool.  He got his three sons, ages 9-15, to sing it in front of an audience of 500 people, an impressive feat.  We had a parody of “Call me maybe” before Japan, sung by the Resident Directors, struggling to keep their footing as we fought our way through hurricane force winds.  (If we had one before China, it escapes me at the moment.)  Here, for your enjoyment, the words to “Malaria,” sung to the tune of “Aquarius.”

When the moon comes out in Vietnam
And nights are sweltering hot,
Then bugs shall rule the planet,
And all of us begin to swat! 

It is at dawn and dusk we think of malaria
Don’t let it scare-y ya
Malaria!
Malaria! 

Malarone and doxycycline.
Larium is not exciting.
Use your netting while you’re sleeping
Wear long sleeves while bugs are leaping
Use your DEET when skin’s revealing
Stay in at night!
Malaria!
Malaria! 

When the food is looking tasty,
And water seems so clear
Beware, it might be nasty
And mi-ight come out your rear! 

So in the dawn you might wake up with diarrhea-ea
Doc Mike will have to see-ee ya
Diarrhea! 
Diarrhea!

Sympathy is notwithstanding
Roommate not too understanding
Keep yourself up off the toilet
It is best if you can boil it
Wash your hands while on your pub crawl
And take pepto! Pepto Bi-ismol!
Pepto Bismol!
Pepto Bismol! 

The saloon turns to a party house.
And you and her have gone too far.
Be sure to use a condom,
And keep out of her boudoir! 

This is the time that you should think about STD’s
Not drink ‘til you’re on your knees
Delirious!
Precarious!
Hilarious!
Malaria!

Growing up, Aquarius (the end of January and beginning of February) was a big deal, with three birthdays, my parent’s anniversary, and Valentine’s Day, all packed into less than three weeks.  From far away Viet Nam, I send greetings today to my dear sister Ellen, who celebrates her birthday today.  XOXOXO


Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Preport jitters

Before every port, we have a mandatory meeting where we get basic survival information.  We hear what the entry process will be, how to get local money, how to say hello and thanks, and maybe the weather forecast.  We are warned about whether the food and drink are safe.  After our first port, we started to get the "this is serious, this is scary" warnings.  After our second, we started to get the police report.  In Vietnam, half the people are terrified to get off the ship.

In Japan, a couple of people got rufied (drugs in their drinks) and had their credit cards stolen.  Bills up to $8500 (probably credit card max) in fraudulent charges.  A few robbed, sexually assaulted.  In China, three people lost their passports (one stolen, one lost, one lost but subsequently found).  More drugged students. 

In Vietnam, we now hear, people on motorbikes grab your sunglasses or your purse as they race by.  They target people walking and in cyclos, the motorcycle taxis.  People have been injured, dragged behind motorcycles because their purses were strapped across their bodies.  IPhones are particular targets; evidently their screens are particularly valuable.

This fun information comes to us from the Department of State, which provides us "Country Specific Information," most of which is, "Travel at your own risk.  If these terrible things happen to you, don't look to us for help!"  Eight pages for Vietnam.  One of my little jobs is to print and post the CSI, so I read the whole thing.  The other scared people were just paying attention to the dire warnings given to the ship.

In addition, we were treated to slide shows of injuries from the ship's most recent trip to Saigon.  Mostly, these were burns from motorcycles.  A few parasites picked up from swimming in fresh water.  Another slide show dealt with souvenirs we are not allowed to bring back:  liquor bottles with snakes and scorpions, cigarette lighters that look like grenades, varous souvenirs that look like bullets or are made from bullets.  All the pictures are of things confiscated from returning passengers.

Our ship's staff captain, in a rare display of humor, suggested that there were other souvenirs we should be wary of bringing home, as we do not want to have to visit the ship's souvenirologist.  (This was an oblique reference to STDs, for an audience which included the children of faculty and staff.)

We were also treated to a brilliant parody of "Aquarius," sung in harmony, where the first verse was "malaria," the second was "diarrhea," and the third, "gonnorrhea." 

Travel isn't for sissies, I find.  I've been taking my malaria pills, I'll carry bottled water, STDs are not a concern, but I haven't figured out how to carry these essentials without involving a purse:
  • Vietnam landing card
  • copy of my passport (they recommend two, actually)
  • greensheet (emergency information for the ship)
  • phone (not IPhone, but smart phone) with local map
  • camera
  • money
  • sunglasses
  • hand sanitizer
  • toilet paper
  • water bottle
  • health information (insurance cards for home and ship plans)
  • fake wallet with minimal money and old ID cards
  • power bar for emergency food source
  • bug spray
  • sunscreen
  • pills for avoiding TD and pills for treating it if avoiding it fails
That 17-pocket vest is looking better after all.

From my desk, I can see the line for the gangway.  Looks like everyone is going to take a chance on it.  Our executive dean did say that we would love it.  Presuming we all survive.

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Shanghai songs


Before every port, we have a mandatory logistical preport, where we hear practical information and dire warnings.  So, the weather forecast, followed by don't go into bars, don't lose your passport, don't eat food from street vendors, don't drink the water.  Be wary of people who might pick your pocket, don't give money to beggars, if it seems too good to be true, it is.

Yes, this is important.  One of our students was mugged in Tokyo, and one will have to undo over $8000 to credit card fraud.  A couple reported their drinks were spiked.

However, I find it also increases the distance I feel from the people I meet.   Someone told me a story of a Vietnam encounter where a traveler met a local and struck up a friendship.  Come to my house, meet my family, let me cook you a real Vietnamese meal, none of this tourist stuff.  It turned out to be a con, and the traveler lost several thousand dollars.  As my son said to me before I left, "You don't feel rich, Mom, but to the people you will meet on your trip, you are very rich."

Years ago, on my honeymoon in Haiti, I spent a memorable day with one Monsieur Pierre Odena, an employee of the state tourist bureau.  In those days, the tourist bureau employees attached themselves to a tourist, provided a personal tour, and hoped for a tip at the end.  Essentially, they worked on commission.  M. Odena took us around the city, and then he took us out to a nearby fortress, and then our taxi broke down (repeatedly) and he finally arranged a ride back to our ship with someone whose car was capable of the trip.  This was followed by months of letters from M. Odena, all of which followed the same general plan:

Hello, I am Pierre Odena and I met you when you and your husband were visiting Haiti and can you please send $100 for glasses?

At the time, I was operating on a hotdog and beans diet and couldn't have afforded to buy my own glasses, but, when you are living on less than 25 cents a day, a stamp may be the best investment you can make.

Fast forward to Shanghai, where I am traveling the city wrapped in a tourist cocoon.  I'm on a bus with 30 other Americans, with a guide named Susie who speaks perfect English.  Our third stop is the Shanghai Museum, where we have a pre-recorded audio tour, in case we need more information than is provided by the captions, which are also in English.   Much like an American museum, it is hushed, dark, and beautifully arranged, with a four-story light-filled atrium.  Susie has advised us to start on the top floor, so I am taking a moment to admire the view.  It is at this moment a man nearby asks, "What country?"

"United States," I reply, and he says, "America!  I love American music!  All kinds.  I sing all kinds.  My favorite is 'America the Beautiful' and 'Yarmixianxin.'"  This throws me for a moment, until he starts singing,

You are my sunshine,
My only sunshine…

He says, "But I do not know the history of this song.  Can you tell me the history?"  Um, no. 

He sings me a few more songs.  He loves Elvis Presley and Steven Foster and John Denver.  Most of all John Denver.  But also Andrew Lloyd Weber. 

He loves "White Christmas."  I try to teach him Elvis' "I'll have a blue Christmas without you," but he is more interested in showing off his knowledge.  He is very famous in Shanghai, almost a star.  He's been on TV many times singing and playing his violin.  He teaches English to people from 2 years to 92 years old.  Do I have any US money?

Huh?  That one comes out of the blue.  My antennae shoot up.  Why does he need American currency?  (More to the point, why would I give him American currency?)  He is professor of business, very important professor.  He needs to teach his students about the money. 

I am carrying American bills, but all my coins are back on the ship.  Except for one Mississippi quarter I found on the street earlier in the day.  I dig it out and give it to him, but now I am wary. 

He chatters on, oblivious.  He wants very much to travel to the US. He wants to see Hollywood especially.  Hollywood and New York City.  He is not impressed that I live near West Virginia, although he has been singing of its charm (West Virginia, Mountain Mama, take me home, take me home). 

He wants to show me Shanghai.  We could go for a drink!  He could show me the city.  What's my phone number?  I could move here, I could teach English with him.  I sing very well.

Now, we are clearly over the top.  I am a very nice person, but I do not sing very well.  I haven't been on the same key in any of our duets, and I'm not even singing the same tune most of the time.  All I know of Jeannie with the light brown hair is the title of the song. 

It's time to end the conversation.  I need a picture for the blog post, and then I'm outta here.  A friend from the ship has been hovering nearby and I grab her to take the picture and make a polite but firm exit.  He has given me his mobile phone and his email address, but I can't read his writing. 


We close the concert out with "Edelweis," the national anthem of Hollywood Austria.  He goes high at the end, I go low, and we part company.