Before every port, we have a mandatory logistical preport, where we hear practical information and dire warnings. So, the weather forecast, followed by don't go into bars, don't lose your passport, don't eat food from street vendors, don't drink the water. Be wary of people who might pick your pocket, don't give money to beggars, if it seems too good to be true, it is.
Yes, this is important. One of our students was mugged in Tokyo, and one will have to undo over $8000 to credit card fraud. A couple reported their drinks were spiked.
However, I find it also increases the distance I feel from the people I meet. Someone told me a story of a Vietnam encounter where a traveler met a local and struck up a friendship. Come to my house, meet my family, let me cook you a real Vietnamese meal, none of this tourist stuff. It turned out to be a con, and the traveler lost several thousand dollars. As my son said to me before I left, "You don't feel rich, Mom, but to the people you will meet on your trip, you are very rich."
Years ago, on my honeymoon in Haiti, I spent a memorable day with one Monsieur Pierre Odena, an employee of the state tourist bureau. In those days, the tourist bureau employees attached themselves to a tourist, provided a personal tour, and hoped for a tip at the end. Essentially, they worked on commission. M. Odena took us around the city, and then he took us out to a nearby fortress, and then our taxi broke down (repeatedly) and he finally arranged a ride back to our ship with someone whose car was capable of the trip. This was followed by months of letters from M. Odena, all of which followed the same general plan:
Hello, I am Pierre Odena and I met you when you and your husband were visiting Haiti and can you please send $100 for glasses?
At the time, I was operating on a hotdog and beans diet and couldn't have afforded to buy my own glasses, but, when you are living on less than 25 cents a day, a stamp may be the best investment you can make.
Fast forward to Shanghai, where I am traveling the city wrapped in a tourist cocoon. I'm on a bus with 30 other Americans, with a guide named Susie who speaks perfect English. Our third stop is the Shanghai Museum, where we have a pre-recorded audio tour, in case we need more information than is provided by the captions, which are also in English. Much like an American museum, it is hushed, dark, and beautifully arranged, with a four-story light-filled atrium. Susie has advised us to start on the top floor, so I am taking a moment to admire the view. It is at this moment a man nearby asks, "What country?"
"United States," I reply, and he says, "America! I love American music! All kinds. I sing all kinds. My favorite is 'America the Beautiful' and 'Yarmixianxin.'" This throws me for a moment, until he starts singing,
You are my sunshine,
My only sunshine…
My only sunshine…
He says, "But I do not know the history of this song. Can you tell me the history?" Um, no.
He sings me a few more songs. He loves Elvis Presley and Steven Foster and John Denver. Most of all John Denver. But also Andrew Lloyd Weber.
He loves "White Christmas." I try to teach him Elvis' "I'll have a blue Christmas without you," but he is more interested in showing off his knowledge. He is very famous in Shanghai, almost a star. He's been on TV many times singing and playing his violin. He teaches English to people from 2 years to 92 years old. Do I have any US money?
Huh? That one comes out of the blue. My antennae shoot up. Why does he need American currency? (More to the point, why would I give him American currency?) He is professor of business, very important professor. He needs to teach his students about the money.
I am carrying American bills, but all my coins are back on the ship. Except for one Mississippi quarter I found on the street earlier in the day. I dig it out and give it to him, but now I am wary.
He chatters on, oblivious. He wants very much to travel to the US. He wants to see Hollywood especially. Hollywood and New York City. He is not impressed that I live near West Virginia, although he has been singing of its charm (West Virginia, Mountain Mama, take me home, take me home).
He wants to show me Shanghai. We could go for a drink! He could show me the city. What's my phone number? I could move here, I could teach English with him. I sing very well.
Now, we are clearly over the top. I am a very nice person, but I do not sing very well. I haven't been on the same key in any of our duets, and I'm not even singing the same tune most of the time. All I know of Jeannie with the light brown hair is the title of the song.
It's time to end the conversation. I need a picture for the blog post, and then I'm outta here. A friend from the ship has been hovering nearby and I grab her to take the picture and make a polite but firm exit. He has given me his mobile phone and his email address, but I can't read his writing.
We close the concert out with "Edelweis," the national anthem of Hollywood Austria. He goes high at the end, I go low, and we part company.
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